The best proteins for both low and high porosity hair
May 01, 2023
Finding the right protein balance for each individual hair type can sometimes be an art.
We have seen that there is a rather black and white view of large and small proteins, and that large proteins are suitable for high porosity hair, and that a number of types of proteins are immediately linked to this.
We investigated this because we also saw that our protein drops by third parties often recommended to curly-headed women with high porosity hair.. because the proteins are considered large while during testing of these drops we received extremely positive feedback from a curly-headed woman with low porosity hair.
We dug into it, and here are the scientific findings on proteins.
Low molecular weight vs high molecular weight proteins (not to be confused with large and small proteins)
Many hair care products contain protein ingredients derived from plants, such as hydrolyzing wheat proteins or hydrolyzing amino acids.
The process of obtaining these ingredients varies and their molecular weight and size significantly influence their affinity for hair fibers.
Low molecular weight proteins are smaller and can penetrate deep into the hair structure.
While high molecular weight proteins consist of large molecules which prevents them from penetrating. Instead, they form a coating over the hair shaft and provide a surface enhancement to the hair fibers (mostly synthetic)
Because these two types of ingredients have different mechanisms of action, they also have different effects on hair quality.
Here is a short list of high molecular weight and low molecular weight proteins:
HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT PROTEINS:
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol (Synthetic)
- Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (Synthetic)
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol (Synthetic)
- Hydrolyzed Collagen (natural, but high molecular weight and size)
- Stearyldimonium hydroxypropyl collagen (Synthetic)
- Albumin (natural, large molecular size and weight)
LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT PROTEINS
- Wheat amino acids
- Silk Amino Acids
- Silk protein
- Rice protein
All four of the above are of natural origin.
What specific type of PROTEIN should I use for low or high porosity hair?
The goal is to choose proteins that are light enough for your hair and don't cause a protein overload.
Always pay attention to how your hair reacts to the protein. If it does not react positively, reduce or stop using the product immediately.
It's also worth noting that you may want to use a protein treatment on your ends rather than all over your hair, so you can target the damaged or weak areas of your hair.
Our ends are the oldest part of our hair and undergo a lot of wear and tear, so it's important to give them some extra TLC (tender, love & care).
Best Proteins for Low Porosity Hair
The list includes water-soluble proteins obtained and derived from natural plant source.
- Hydrolyzed keratin
- Hydrolyzed wheat protein
- Hydrolyzed wheat amino acids
- Silk Amino Acids or protein
- Milk protein
Best Proteins for High Porosity Hair
- Hydrolyzed Collagen
- Collagen Amino Acids
- Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
- Hydrolyzed Brazil Nut Protein
- Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (suitable for both low and high porosity hair)
And this proves that our protein drops are suitable for both low and high porosity hair. And we debunk that "big proteins" are only suitable for high porosity hair, or you can say it differently, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is not only a big protein, it also contains small proteins because it is rich in amino acids.
In addition to the Hydrolyzed Wheat protein, our drops also contain other proteins, see the product description.
HOW DO WE RESTORE A NEGATIVE REACTION TO PROTEIN?
What if the hair becomes dry and brittle after applying protein and feels like straw?
In such cases, the best solution is to follow the steps below:
- Wash your hair immediately with a clarifying shampoo.
- Apply a regular moisturizing conditioner or a moisturizing leave-in conditioner to counteract the negative straw feeling.
- Do not use the protein product. Stop using it immediately.
Always remember to use your hair as a guide!
Hope this article has been useful to you.
